Experience a year of working as a software engineer in Japan (at Fukuoka)

I've been working in Japan for a year now, and I want to share some thoughts and insights with everyone. I hope this can spark discussions and dispel some misconceptions about job hunting and employment in Japan.

This article is a bit lengthy, covering aspects from the job hunting process to work content and daily life, aiming to clarify information that is less discussed online. I wrote an article about my job hunting experiences last year; if you're interested, feel free to check it out: Job Hunting Experience of a Software Engineer in Japan.

Background

• 4 years of experience in front-end development (the first three years in Taiwan)
• Graduated from National Kaohsiung University of Science and Technology
• Japanese Language Proficiency Test N1, TOEIC score of 830

I've always had a fondness for Japanese culture and developed the idea of working in Japan during college. At one point, I even applied for a working holiday visa to start my journey. However, due to military service and financial constraints, I never went through with it. Before graduation, I accumulated over two years of work experience but ended up delaying graduation by a year due to some previous misadventures.

Fortunately, I received my military enlistment notice right after graduation, seamlessly transitioning into my military service (four months). After completing my service, I focused on job openings in Japan and eventually secured an offer.

• July 2018: Graduated from university (fifth year)
• September 2018 - January 2019: Military service
• February - April 2019: Job hunting, submitting resumes, interviews
• April 2019: Received an offer and began visa processing
• April 23, 2019: Submitted the residency application
• June 14, 2019: Received the residency certificate and exchanged it for a visa at the Japan Exchange and Teaching (JET) program; this process took about 30 to 40 days
• July 1, 2019 - July 1, 2020: Completed one year of employment

Observations on Software Development in Japan

Taiwan has many good companies and talent, along with a high demand for software development. However, compared to the market and population in Japan, the scale is quite different. Here, many pure software companies are recruiting IT talent, hoping to seize the opportunity to explore overseas while the cost of opportunity is low and they're still young.

What I've noticed is that while some companies still don't place much emphasis on software, and there are many instances where business needs overshadow engineering, there seems to be a gradual improvement in recent trends.

Regarding open source, I think the earlier Tokyo COVID-19 website is a great example. This website was collaboratively developed by engineers from various sectors. Although Japan's government response to the pandemic has been somewhat chaotic compared to Taiwan, you can still see people rolling up their sleeves and getting things done. A notable mention is the Pull Request made by Audrey Tang, which created quite a stir.

COVID-19 Prevention Measures Website

This pandemic website is not only for Tokyo; similar code has been adopted by other regions, such as Nagasaki and Fukuoka, which cloned the code from the Tokyo website and made modifications.

Additionally, the Japanese government provides a wealth of open data, such as the Tokyo Metropolitan Government's Open Data Portal and the Fukuoka Open Data Portal, which include datasets on population changes, subway usage, and COVID-19 infection information. Based on these findings, I don't feel that Japan is behind; it's merely a difference rooted in cultural distinctions.

Software Development Process

In my work, I've clearly noticed the presence of very detailed specifications during feature development, which include the UI of the development pages, along with comprehensive status transition logic and conditional expressions for each component. The clarity of the requirements makes it easier to eliminate ambiguities in development.

The downside is that Japan tends to prefer consolidating resources and planning before seeking cross-departmental approvals, which can lead to longer overall development cycles. In this context, the advantage for foreigners is the flexibility to improve gradually from existing structures and produce results step by step, making it easier to respond to process-related issues.

Open Source / Technical Exchange

During my time in Japanese communities, I encountered several developers contributing to Vue and React. When applying to companies, most are primarily seeking talent with experience in Vue, React, and other front-end frameworks, while many traditional Japanese companies still use jQuery, ASP, or PHP.

Japan's software development ecosystem is unique; platforms for technical articles tend to center around Qiita, while personal blogs often use HATENA. Many developers also write articles on Note. For technical community exchanges, Twitter and Conpass are popular, and in recent years, independent developers have launched the zen platform, which has been well-received within Japan's developer community.

I believe that information flows quite rapidly within Japan's software industry. For example, with the launch of Recoil, there were immediately articles written by Japanese developers the day after the video and documentation were released. In contrast, articles from China tend to generate discussions mainly within Taiwanese Facebook communities or on Twitter. This might be because Taiwanese people are accustomed to reading original articles and don't usually take the extra step to translate or summarize them.

Work System

Here, flexible working hours are adopted. Although we use "minashi-zangyo" (where salaries include overtime pay, and overtime within specified hours is not additionally compensated), I haven't had to work overtime much so far. Even if there is overtime, I can come in a bit later the next day.

However, I believe there are still companies in Japan with quite demanding work environments, or unspoken rules where you can't leave until your supervisor does. For example, the article "The Dark Side of IT Dispatching in Japan as Seen by Taiwanese Engineers" describes many dark aspects of dispatching in Japan. This is something you need to inquire about and pick up on during interviews.

I want to emphasize that "your experience is your own." The perspectives and experiences in this article may differ completely from yours, and I do not intend to negate anyone's experiences. However, if I can provide more perspectives, I believe it will help everyone make more informed choices rather than blindly believing that "Japan = exploitation."

Salary

In my view, while there are many companies in Japan offering low salaries in software development, the ceiling is relatively much higher than in Taiwan.

You might want to check out Open Salary, where many of the top-ranking companies offer salaries exceeding 10 million yen, such as LINE, Mercari, Google Japan, Yahoo, and PayPay. It seems that foreign companies dominate, but I believe some Japanese startups can also offer competitive salaries. If you have the skills, you can develop a good career in Japan; it doesn’t have to be as pessimistic as what you might hear on PTT.

Open Salary Salary List

Of course, if you look closely, you will find companies where annual salary and experience don’t align well. Currently, I work in Fukuoka, and earning over 5 million yen annually allows for a pretty comfortable lifestyle. I can occasionally travel while still saving some money, and I will elaborate on expenses later.

Tax System

People often mention tax issues; every time I see the taxes and pension deductions on my paycheck, along with the hefty resident tax, it gives me chills. According to this calculator, if the annual salary is 5 million yen, after deducting various expenses and assuming I declare support for my parents, the monthly income tax would be approximately 12,000 yen. You can use the Income Tax & Resident Tax Easy Calculator for detailed calculations.

Declaring support for overseas relatives can save quite a bit, as a family member can have a deduction of 380,000 yen. With parents plus siblings, you can deduct 380,000 * 3 = 1,140,000 yen. Based on a 20% income tax rate, you can save about 228,000 yen (114 * 0.2 = 228,000 yen) in taxes, which is not insignificant.

Another point to share is that taxes in Taiwan are relatively lighter. For example, we have a Dutch colleague in our company who mentioned that nearly half (42%) of his salary goes to the government. So, when he receives his tax declaration forms, he finds it troublesome to fill them out since it seems trivial to him XD.

Moreover, compared to the tax system, I find the pension system a bit scarier. With an annual salary of 5 million yen, the monthly contribution is 37,515 yen (450,180 / 12).

If you plan to return to Taiwan or do not wish to work in Japan long-term, remember to apply for one-time withdrawal; the government will refund up to three years' worth of pension contributions. Although there will be some deductions, it's still better than nothing, and accumulating three years' worth can be a significant amount of savings.

Colleagues

Among engineers in my company, nearly half are foreigners, with Taiwanese and Chinese individuals making up the majority.

Japan may not be as competitive as the Bay Area, but due to a labor shortage, it has become quite an international stage. Besides enjoying geographical advantages, I have the opportunity to work with engineers from various countries, which I find to be a fantastic experience.

Life in Fukuoka

"Fukuoka is more laid-back. If you seek a balance between work and life, Fukuoka is a very attractive option."

— BBC: Can Fukuoka Become Japan's Most Innovative City?

I currently live in Fukuoka, and some people looking to work in Japan have misconceptions about the city, thinking of it as a "rural area" or that working overseas must be in Tokyo. Much of the information about Fukuoka online is tourism-related, so I want to elaborate a bit more.

While Fukuoka may not be as bustling as Tokyo and lacks its diversity, as Kyushu's largest city, I believe Fukuoka is a unique, suitable place to live and work. According to this survey, Fukuoka ranks fourth among the most desirable places to live in Japan.

Even if you come to Fukuoka on a working holiday visa, there are plenty of Taiwanese people around to support each other. Fukuoka also has several Taiwanese-owned eateries and dessert shops, so there's no need to worry too much.

1. Affordable Cost of Living and Rent

Before moving to Japan, I lived in Taipei in an old rooftop apartment near Xing Tian Gong, around 20 to 30 years old, with a monthly rent of NT$13,000 for two and a half years.

The place had mold, leaks, an old air conditioner, and an antique washing machine, and accumulated dust caused me allergies, making me frequently sneeze and have a runny nose.

After relocating to Fukuoka, I now live in a four-year-old 1LDK apartment with a rent just over NT$20,000.

Old apartment near Xing Tian Gong (left) and current residence (right)

Old bathroom (top) and current bathroom (bottom)

Left: Old air conditioner and mold; Right: Independent kitchen and large refrigerator

The space is much larger, with an independent kitchen, a large refrigerator, and a separate bathroom, and there are no mold, leaks, or other issues. Although the rent is over 7,000 more, the quality of life has significantly improved, and my previous allergy symptoms have improved a lot after a few months in Japan. Since I moved into an empty apartment, I could create my favorite decor.

When I first moved to Japan, the company also subsidized initial costs and relocation fees, so I didn't spend too much on furniture. According to colleagues, finding a similar-quality apartment (new within five years, 1LDK, around 32 square meters) in Tokyo would require moving far from the city center, potentially a one-hour commute, or spending several tens of thousands of yen on rent to find a similar place.

Regarding food, I think if you mainly cook for yourself, eating out occasionally doesn’t differ much from Tokyo, so the price gap (between Tokyo and Fukuoka) may not be very prominent.

2. Commuting

My current residence is just a 15-minute subway ride from Hakata. The commute isn’t as terrifying as the Yamanote Line in Tokyo (although taking JR during peak hours can be quite daunting). The company subsidizes subway monthly passes, and on weekends, I can explore places like Nishijin, Tenjin, and Nakasu Kawabata, all covered by the monthly pass, saving on transportation costs.

If you want to travel, Fukuoka, as Kyushu's transportation hub, has the Shinkansen to head towards Kyoto and Tokyo, and also south towards Kumamoto and Kagoshima. You can take JR to go north towards Kitakyushu and Nagasaki, and if you want to go to the countryside, you can take express buses to Beppu and Yufuin.

Fukuoka Airport is connected to the subway, allowing direct access to the airport. Domestic flights are very convenient, and for international flights, a shuttle bus takes just over ten minutes to get to Hakata via the subway.

Traveling back to Taiwan is also easy, as many airlines have direct flights from Fukuoka to Taiwan, taking just an hour and a half.

3. Engineer Friendly City

Engineer Friendly City Website Introduction

This initiative is a collaboration between the private sector and the Fukuoka City Government aimed at attracting more engineers to gather in Fukuoka. Regular technical exchange events are held, fostering community engagement and providing venues. Major companies are sponsoring this initiative, and even Fukuoka City Mayor Soichiro Takashima stated:

"Fukuoka City offers an excellent environment for engineers to thrive. First, there’s overwhelming livability. Attractive urban functionality, delicious food, and nearby nature are all compactly available. Then, there’s a wealth of intellectual stimulation and information. Numerous engineering communities exist, where study sessions and information exchanges happen daily, creating a chemical reaction that leads to innovation. Additionally, the government is supportive of startups, maintaining a low barrier to entry for collaboration."

In fact, many Japanese companies have established bases in Fukuoka, such as LINE, Mercari, GMO, Rakuten, and Nulab, with many Japanese startups also setting up operations here.

4. Expenses and Living Costs

Item	Amount (Yen)	Notes
Rent	¥75,450
Food	¥40,000
Electricity	¥7,000	Varies by season
Water	¥5,000	Varies by season
Gas	¥6,500	Varies by season; I use a lot of hot water in winter
Gym	¥7,000	Anytime Fitness
Student Loan	¥12,000
Total	¥152,450

Fixed Expense Overview

These are my fixed expenses in Fukuoka; other expenses like transportation and phone bills are covered by the company, so I haven’t included those. If you’re flexible about living arrangements, you can definitely lower the budget further. In winter, if you don’t use the heater, you can save some on electricity.

5. Hakata Dialect

In Kyushu, there are many regional dialects, with the most common in Fukuoka being Hakata dialect (博多弁). It's said to be the region with the strongest dialect consciousness in all of Japan; even the subway IC card issued in Fukuoka is named after the Hakata dialect, "hayakaken" (早い), which gives the residents a strong local identity (but not necessarily exclusionary). By the way, girls who speak Hakata dialect are extremely cute XD.

Does Knowing Japanese Help with Job Hunting in Japan?

Yes, but if you neglect your technical skills, that would be counterproductive.

The market value for technical positions fundamentally depends on whether your skills meet the company's needs; Japanese language proficiency is merely an accessory that can enhance your value. If your technical foundation isn’t solid, you still won’t find good positions. Conversely, if you have strong technical skills but struggle with Japanese, you can still find good jobs in Japan.

Although I had already obtained my JLPT N1 before moving to Japan, it still took me some time to adapt once I got here.

For Taiwanese who have never learned Japanese, under the right circumstances, such as companies offering Japanese courses, typically within a year to a year and a half, one can achieve JLPT N2, and with some effort, even N1. Speaking proficiency largely depends on personal aptitude; most companies still primarily communicate in English, and meetings often have interpreters. Of course, knowing Japanese is a plus, as it enables more direct communication with Japanese colleagues.

After working for about six months, I was promoted to Tech Lead in my project (in a front-end team of 3-4 people). Most of the implementation and discussions for functionalities within the project, as well as communication with the PM, were conducted in Japanese. This smooth communication helped gain recognition from my colleagues. However, many other colleagues also serve as project Tech Leads, some of whom are foreigners with varying levels of Japanese skills but definitely possess the technical capabilities to lead projects to successful launches.

Another benefit of mastering Japanese is gaining entry into small local circles. During lunch or casual chats, most conversations among Japanese colleagues are in Japanese. Engaging in these discussions not only fosters better relationships but also allows for deeper conversations. Currently, two colleagues and I occasionally go out for paintball and chat about games and other interests.

Discoveries After Moving to Japan

As mentioned in the article, I had the goal of working in Japan since college, even hoping to settle here. However, after living here for a year, I've realized a few things.

Firstly, regarding food, eating out in Japan isn't cheap due to high labor costs, and the options are relatively limited—often just salmon, donburi, gyudon, karaage, miso soup, and curry rotating on the menu. Even occasional BBQ or hotpot isn't something one can have every day.

In contrast, Taiwanese cuisine offers a vast variety; just the breakfast menu can be a dilemma, not to mention the diverse dining options at relatively low prices. The developments in Taiwan over the past few years, such as stock market performance, economic growth, and pandemic policies, are also quite promising. If living conditions can improve, I believe Taiwan will be one of the best places to live in Asia.

2024/02 Update:

This article was written in 2020, when my perspective was simply that eating out was convenient and offered various options. However, Taiwan's rising housing prices often lead to high rental costs and frequent disputes with landlords, not to mention transportation issues.

While I still love Taiwanese food, overall, I prefer Japan's living environment.

Off Topic

If you're interested in my story about job hunting and working in Japan, feel free to refer to the following series. If you have questions about job hunting or working in Japan, you can also reach out to me on Twitter or leave a comment below.

• Job Hunting Experience of a Software Engineer in Japan